Aletschhorn, the second summit of the Bernese…
June 1859 CE
When the Jungfrau was first climbed, the climbers used base camps on the Aletschfirn, at the foot of the Aletschhorn.
The Aletschhorn is climbed first in 1859 by Francis Fox Tuckett, J. J. Bennen, V. Tairraz and P. Bohren.
The party had passed the night in some holes in the rocks above the Mittel Aletsch Glacier (on the east side of the mountain), and on the following morning, on June 18, start the ascent and reach the snow arête connecting the Dreieckhorn with the main peak.
The passage along this arête at so early period of the year, before the snow has become well consolidated, involves some risk and a slope of névé lying at an angle of 50°, requires care and good step-cutting, but the summit can be reached without too much difficulty.
Like many other climbers, Tuckett has taken with him a barometer and makes scientific observations.
He notes the icy temperature and the very strong wind, blowing the snow and threatening to knock over the climbers.
After they reach the summit, Tuckett separates from Bennen and descends via the north face with Bohren and Tairraz.
He wants to descend directly to the Lötschental, but soon after they begin the descent, an avalanche starts right under the feet of the climbers.
They cautiously go back and descend on the Mittelaletsch.
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