Neoclassicism in the wake of the French…
1792 CE to 1803 CE
Neoclassicism in the wake of the French Revolution, during the ascendancy of Directory and Empire fashions, is at its height, consciously emulating the rich elegance of pre-Revolutionary France.
As fashion attempts to translate such ideals of the Revolution as democracy and liberation, women's gowns are now supposed to be based upon the classical dress of ancient Greece.
The gowns' fabrics are of white or pale colors in imitation of those depicted by white marble statuary.
At the beginning of the century, women still wore many petticoats, bound together, to show the great fullness of the skirt, but by the time the English novelist Fanny Burney visits Paris in April 1802, her modest wardrobe is found too full: "Three petticoats! no one wears more than one! Stays? everybody has left off even corsets! Shift-sleeves? not a soul now wears even a chemise."
The new Empire style gowns women to emphasize femininity and grace, in, loose, flowing floor-length creations of light fabrics, frequently having trains, that are universally quite décolletté and girdled immediately beneath the breasts.
To be purely classical, young women adopt the high-waisted, diaphanous gowns, with only one petticoat beneath, flaunting the whole of the female frame in a manner that seems indecent to the older generation.
Stays are not abandoned for long, however, as the new slim line requires a sylphlike figure, and any bulges of the stomach or bottom must be suppressed.
In any case, this classical vogue is not strictly accurate.
The gowns are not draped on or pinned together as in antiquity but feature a tailored bodice and cap sleeves.
Corsets are abandoned; indeed, women wear a minimum of thin garments with little underwear: totally unsuitable garb for the winters of northern Europe.
To attempt to offset the chill, women adopt numerous warm outer garments, including a three-quarter-length overdress made from a warmer, richer-colored material and a variety of scarves, stoles, shawls, and pelisses.
Hair is dressed classical fashion in a chignon bound with ribbons and decorated with plumes.
Men's fashions of the Empire period feature a cutaway tailcoat revealing a waistcoat and high-collared shirt with cravat, much resembling the tailoring of London.
Civilian men are largely clean-shaven; soldiers wear mustaches.