Fashionable European Women's Dress: The Henin and…

1420 CE to 1431 CE

Fashionable European Women's Dress: The Henin and Beauty Trends (c. 1420)

By 1420, fashionable European women—especially in France, Burgundy, and the Low Countries—adopted the steeple hat, or henin, as a mark of nobility and high status. This dramatic, cone-shaped headdress became one of the most recognizable symbols of late medieval European fashion.

The Henin: A Symbol of Elegance and Status

The henin was a tall, conical headdress, often reaching up to three feet in height.
It was typically made of stiffened fabric or wire, covered with fine silk, velvet, or brocade.
A long, flowing veil (often made of transparent silk or gauze) was wrapped around the base of the hat and left to trail down the back, adding an air of grandeur and sophistication.

Variations of the Henin

"Steeple Henin" – The classic tall, pointed version, often worn by French and Burgundian nobility.
"Heart-Shaped Henin" (or Butterfly Henin) – Featuring wing-like veils on either side, popular in the Low Countries.
Shorter Henins – More modest versions, worn by lesser nobility and wealthy merchants' wives.

Beauty Standards of the Early 15th Century

To complement the henin, noblewomen adhered to specific beauty ideals:

Hair Concealment – Women hid their hair under the headdress, as exposed hair was considered improperfor noble ladies.
Plucked Eyebrows – Thin, highly arched eyebrows were fashionable, achieved by plucking or shaving.
Pale Skin – Considered a sign of nobility and leisure, achieved by using powders or lead-based cosmetics.
Rouged Cheeks – A touch of red pigment was applied to the cheeks to create a delicate, rosy glow.

Cultural and Social Significance

The henin became a symbol of aristocracy, with sumptuary laws restricting its use to noblewomen in some regions.
It reflected Burgundian court fashion, which dominated European style in the early 15th century.
The extravagant height of the henin was sometimes criticized as vain and impractical, but it remained highly fashionable throughout the mid-to-late 15th century.

Legacy and Influence

The henin declined in popularity by the late 15th century, replaced by wider, padded headdresses such as the French hood.
However, its iconic silhouette remains a popular representation of medieval noblewomen in art, literature, and historical reenactments.

The fashion of 1420 emphasized elegance, height, and refinement, with the henin and beauty rituals playing a key role in noblewomen’s identity and status.

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Fashionable European Women's Dress: The Henin and…